Azepur99®

Azepur99® is a high-purity cosmetic grade azelaic acid developed for advanced skin, scalp and haircare formulations. Produced from renewable sunflower-derived raw materials, Azepur99® combines consistent ≥99% purity with excellent formulation performance and reliable global supply.

Developed for modern cosmetic applications, Azepur99® supports formulators looking for multifunctional performance, stable processing and high-quality ingredient specifications. Its controlled particle size distribution helps improve dispersion, reduce grittiness and support elegant textures in cosmetic formulations.

Azepur99®

Product properties

  • High purity ≥99%
  • Fine particle size
  • 100% biobased origin
  • Palm-free & vegan
  • COSMOS approved
  • Easy dispersion
  • Suitable for skin & scalp care
  • Excellent batch consistency

Product activity

  • Skin brightening
  • Antioxidant activity
  • Anti-inflammatory support
  • Sebum regulation
  • Microbiome balancing
  • Supports skin clarity
  • Scalp balancing
  • Haircare support
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Key benefits

Clearer-looking skin

Supports clearer-looking skin by helping normalise follicular keratinisation, balance excess sebum and reduce the appearance of blemishes.

How does it work?
Clearer-looking skin
Even skin tone

Even skin tone

Helps improve the appearance of uneven skin tone, dark spots and post-blemish marks by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme that drives melanin production.

How does it work?

Redness-prone skin

Helps calm the look of redness-prone skin thanks to its antioxidant activity and its balancing effect on the skin’s microflora.

How does it work?
Redness-prone skin
Scalp & hair support

Scalp & hair support

Supports a balanced scalp and healthier-looking hair through 5-alpha-reductase inhibition, a mechanism documented in published research.

How does it work?

Azelaic acid at its
purest: 99% and beyond

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid, found in grains such as rye, wheat and barley. Azepur99® is the cosmetic grade of this molecule, obtained by oxidative cleavage of high oleic sunflower oil and refined by repeated distillation and crystallisation to a purity of at least 99%. Regular grades on the market are specified at 85 to 90%.

The powder is micronised to a maximum particle size of 20 micron. Fine, consistent particles disperse more easily, reduce grittiness and support elegant textures. Together with a continuous production process that runs around the clock, this gives formulators a raw material with the same specification in every batch.

Azepur99®
Purity ≥99% regular grades 85 to 90%
Particle size ≤20 µm micronised, easy dispersion
Use level 5 to 15% 3 to 10% for scalp care
Origin Sunflower European, palm-free
INCI Azelaic Acid CAS 123-99-9
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Watch: how to use Azepur99® in your formulation

Formulation guidance

How to formulate with Azepur99®

  • Use level: 5 to 15% for skin care; 10 to 15% is recommended for brightening and dark spot products, 3 to 10% for scalp and hair care.
  • pH: stay between 5.5 and 6.5 in water-based products and O/W emulsions for the best balance of stability and bioavailability.
  • Solubility: soluble in glycols, glycerin and alcohols, only 2.1 g/l in water at 20°C. A 50/50 mixture of butylene glycol and propanediol dissolves up to 10% azelaic acid; ethoxydiglycol dissolves more than 250 g/l.
  • Emulsions: partially neutralise the water phase before emulsification; W/O emulsions carry up to 15% without crystallisation. Suitable for gel emulsions, microemulsions and organogels.
  • Stability: self-preserving, thermally stable and pH stable; formulations pass six months at 40°C when solubilised correctly.
  • Combinations: with HydrActive™ Almond Oil, which solubilises 3% azelaic acid in oil-based products, or with T-pur99® for brightening concepts.

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Azepur99®

From European sunflowers to a 100% biobased active

Azepur99® starts as high oleic sunflower oil of European origin. The oleic chain is cleaved and the resulting azelaic acid is purified in a continuous process under ISO 9001:2015. The result is 100% biobased, palm-free and GMO-free, and classified as a naturally derived ingredient under ISO 16128 with a 100% biobased carbon content. Azepur99® is COSMOS approved, REACH registered, vegan and halal suitable.

Our sustainability story
Related actives

Combine with

LadyPurple®

Microalgae-derived active supporting hydration, microbiome balance, and protection against environmental stress.

TetraGold®

Bioactive microalgae ingredient designed to support skin hydration, sebum balance, and barrier function.

T-pur99®

High-purity tetrahydrocurcumin designed to support visible skin performance and even skin tone.

Azepur99®

≥99% purity azelaic acid to support formulation performance. Suitable for skin and scalp applications.

Amazia™

Violacein-based biotechnology active for blemish-prone skin that respects the skin microbiome.

HydrActive™ Almond Oil

Bioactivated almond oil with clinically proven soothing and moisturising properties.

BioMic™ Fermentate

Postbiotic anti-ageing active obtained by precision fermentation.

Choose
product

Purity is not a marketing word for us. At 99% and a particle size below 20 micron, Azepur99® behaves the same way in every batch, and that is what makes a formulation scalable.

Azeco technical support

Frequently asked questions about Azepur99®

The questions formulators ask us most about azelaic acid, from purity and origin to solubility, pH and combinations.

Azepur99® is supplied as a dry, free-flowing micronized powder. This format gives formulators full flexibility to disperse it in emulsions, pre-solubilise it in a solvent phase, or build clear concentrate solutions, depending on the target product.

With a typical purity of 99.7 to 99.9%, the remaining fraction consists of related dicarboxylic acids such as pelargonic acid, suberic acid and similar by-products of the production process. This high purity is one of the key quality differentiators of Azepur99®.

Azepur99® is micronized to a maximum particle size of around 20 micron. The fine, uniform particle size supports easy dispersion in emulsions and stable suspensions, and contributes to a pleasant skin feel in finished formulations.

Azepur99® has a purity greater than 99% by weight, with a typical purity of 99.7 to 99.9%. This is among the highest purity levels available on the market and meets the requirements for both cosmetic and pharmaceutical-grade azelaic acid (pharmaceutical grade requires a purity above 99%).

Azepur99® is obtained through oxidative cleavage of the double bond of the oleic chain in the triglyceride of sunflower oil. After several purification steps the material is micro-milled into a fine, free-flowing powder. The result is Azepur99®, a high-purity azelaic acid suitable for personal care products.

Yes. Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring straight-chain saturated dicarboxylic acid that is present in grains such as rye, wheat and barley. It is also produced naturally on healthy human skin.

The INCI name is Azelaic Acid. Its CAS number is 123-99-9, the molecular formula is C9H16O4 and the molecular weight is approximately 188.2 g/mol. Azelaic acid is a straight-chain saturated dicarboxylic acid, also known as nonanedioic acid.

Azepur99® is Azeco's trademarked cosmetic-grade azelaic acid: a free-flowing, micronized white powder with a purity greater than 99%. It is produced from European, high-oleic sunflower oil and is supplied to cosmetic brands, formulators and contract manufacturers for use in skin care, scalp care and hair care products. The pay-off is simple: the highest grade of azelaic acid for skin and hair care, when quality and reliability come first.

Azelaic acid is positioned as a gentle, sustainable alternative to benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid. It is multifunctional (covering acne-prone, inflammation-prone, brightening and scalp applications), 100% biobased and palm-free, non-comedogenic and well tolerated. For brands looking to develop a clean, sustainable active story, it offers a compelling alternative to more aggressive ingredients.

Yes. Azelaic acid has antioxidant properties, which adds to its appeal as a multifunctional active in skin-care formulations.

Azelaic acid is not limited to Acne vulgaris. Studies indicate it is also effective on other forms, for example hidradenitis suppurativa (Acne inversa). Effectiveness depends on the concentration of azelaic acid in the product. For cosmetic products a concentration up to roughly 14% is generally used, while pharmaceutical products are based on 20%.

Azelaic acid is a potent 5-alpha-reductase inhibitor, the enzyme that converts testosterone into 5-alpha-dihydrotestosterone (DHT). It is also associated with scalp microbiome normalization and hair re-growth stimulation, which is why it is of interest for scalp and hair-care formulations.

Azelaic acid supports skin brightening and whitening through tyrosinase inhibition and melanin reduction, the pathways involved in the formation of pigment. This makes it a popular active for products targeting hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone.

Azelaic acid helps balance acne-prone skin through several mechanisms relevant to formulators. It has antibacterial activity that targets specific opportunistic organisms such as Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes) and Staphylococcus epidermidis, it is comedolytic, and it supports sebum regulation. Its activity is limited to opportunistic organisms and does not disturb the commensal skin flora.

Studies report that azelaic acid at concentrations of approximately 3 to 10% can support hair and scalp formulations. Particularly good results are described when azelaic acid is combined with zinc sulphate and vitamin B6.

Published data show positive results for skin lightening, brightening and the appearance of dark spots using approximately 3 to 10% by weight of azelaic acid in the formulation.

Cosmetic products containing roughly 5 to 15% by weight of azelaic acid are commonly used for rosacea-prone and redness-prone skin. As a reference point, FDA-approved pharmaceutical products for rosacea are based on a 15% azelaic acid content. Higher concentrations generally deliver stronger performance.

For cosmetic products, a concentration of up to about 14 to 15% by weight is generally used, and published studies indicate azelaic acid remains effective for blemish-prone skin at these levels. For reference, pharmaceutical (drug) products approved by the U.S. FDA for acne are based on 20% azelaic acid creams. Generally, the higher the concentration, the stronger the performance of the product.

In pure powder form azelaic acid is a mild skin and eye irritant, so standard laboratory handling practices apply. According to the classification limits in its REACH registration dossier, finished products containing up to 15% by weight of azelaic acid are not classified as irritant. Azelaic acid has no CMR (carcinogenic, mutagenic or reprotoxic) properties. Always refer to the current safety data sheet for handling guidance.

Yes. Azelaic acid is frequently combined with other actives. For scalp and hair-care formulations, for example, good results are reported when azelaic acid is combined with zinc sulphate and vitamin B6. As always, confirm compatibility and stability of your specific combination during development.

Azelaic acid is considered non-comedogenic and is widely used in formulations for acne-prone skin. Its comedolytic profile and oil-free formulation options make it a popular choice for products aimed at congested or blemish-prone skin.

Azelaic acid has self-preserving properties and shows specific antibacterial activity against certain organisms. It is not, however, a broad-spectrum preservative, so a complete preservation strategy should still be evaluated for water-containing formulations.

Azelaic acid is thermally stable under normal cosmetic processing conditions, which makes it suitable for both cold-process and heated formulation routes. As with any active, validate your specific process and combination of ingredients during stability testing.

The alkali salts of azelaic acid are reasonably soluble in water, although a co-solvent such as propylene glycol is recommended to support stability in the final product.

Yes. By pre-solubilising azelaic acid in a glycol or glycerin-based phase, you can build oil-free serums containing roughly 10 to 20% by weight of azelaic acid while keeping the system clear and stable. This makes azelaic acid well suited to lightweight, non-greasy product formats.

Once azelaic acid is dissolved in 1,2-glycols or glycerin, the solution can be thickened into a fully transparent gel using rheology modifiers such as:
  • Hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC)
  • Carbomers (anhydrous systems only)
  • Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Azelaic acid has poor solubility in water. Solubility can be greatly improved by pre-solubilising it in an organic phase based mainly on glycols, glycerin, poloxamer or surfactants such as alkyl glucosides. With this approach it is possible to obtain oil-free serums with a high concentration of azelaic acid (in the region of 10 to 20% by weight).

Azeco supplies extensive quality, technical and regulatory documentation to support your product development and compliance work, including specifications, certificates of analysis, safety data sheets and supporting regulatory information. Customers also gain access to Azeco's knowledge library with formulation guidance and background documentation. Contact service@azeco-cosmeceuticals.com to request documentation.

Azeco operates under an ISO 9001:2015 certified quality management system and provides COSMOS-approved, REACH-compliant material. This combination supports consistent batch-to-batch quality and reliable supply for professional buyers.

Yes. Azepur99® is vegan, halal-suitable and GMO-free. Because it is derived from sunflower oil and contains no animal-derived materials, it fits a wide range of certified and clean-label product positionings.

Yes. Azepur99® is REACH compliant. Azeco maintains the relevant registration documentation and shares the supporting regulatory information with customers on request.

Yes. Azepur99® is COSMOS approved, which makes it suitable for use in certified natural and organic cosmetic formulations.

Yes. Azepur99® is 100% biobased and palm-free, made from high-oleic sunflower oil rather than petrochemical or palm-derived feedstock. This supports clean-label and sustainability positioning for finished cosmetic products.

Azepur99® is of European origin and is produced from European high-oleic sunflower oil. Azeco Cosmeceuticals is based in the Netherlands and supplies customers in more than 40 countries across Europe, the Americas, Australia and Asia.

Yes. Azeco offers free samples of Azepur99® so you can evaluate the material in your own laboratory before committing to a larger order. Contact service@azeco-cosmeceuticals.com to request a sample.

Azelaic acid is approved worldwide as an Active Pharmaceutical Ingredient (API) for the treatment of acne and rosacea. Pharmaceutical (drug) products typically contain 20% (acne) or 15% (rosacea) azelaic acid and require a doctor's prescription. For cosmetic use, a concentration below roughly 15% by weight is generally used, and no prescription is required. Pharmaceutical-grade azelaic acid requires a purity above 99%, which Azepur99® meets.

Yes. Azelaic acid is listed in the main pharmacopoeias, and a dedicated monograph is also available in the Indian Pharmacopoeia.

In pure form, azelaic acid is a mild skin and eye irritant. According to the specific classification limits in its REACH registration dossier, finished products containing up to 15% by weight of azelaic acid are not classified as irritant. Azelaic acid has no CMR (carcinogenic, mutagenic or reprotoxic) properties.

Regulation varies by country. In some Asian markets, whitening creams in general (including those based on azelaic acid) are not treated as ordinary cosmetics but as quasi-drug products, which require pre-market notification or approval. In a number of countries azelaic acid is not listed as a permitted cosmetic ingredient at all. Because the rules differ significantly per market, we recommend confirming the local regulatory status before planning a launch. Azeco can support exports to markets where azelaic acid is permitted.

The U.S. FDA does not pre-approve cosmetic ingredients other than prohibiting certain substances. Azelaic acid is not prohibited and may be used in cosmetic and personal care products, including at higher concentrations. As always, the manufacturer is responsible for the safety of the finished product.

Yes. Under EU Commission Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, azelaic acid can be used in cosmetic products without a specific concentration restriction.

To request a quote, a sample or technical documentation, contact our team at service@azeco-cosmeceuticals.com. Let us know your target application, desired concentration and volumes, and we will help you take the next step.

Azeco provides outstanding technical and regulatory support to its customers, including formulation guidance, solubility and stability advice, and access to a knowledge library. Our goal is to help you develop high-quality azelaic acid products efficiently and with confidence.

Azeco serves customers in more than 40 countries across Europe, North and South America, Australia and Asia. Where local regulations restrict azelaic acid as a cosmetic ingredient, we can advise on the export and compliance route for your market.

Azeco supplies Azepur99® in a wide range of quantities, from 1 kg for development and pilot work up to 100,000 kg for full-scale production. This makes it possible to scale with you from first trials through to commercial volumes.
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Azepur99® documentation

The Essential Guide, the skin care and hair care information files, the Technical Information File and the whitepaper on high dosage azelaic acid, free after registration.

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Technical guidance for formulators covering applications, formulation strategies, solubility and cosmetic positioning of azelaic acid.

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See Azepur99® at work in skin care: applications, formulation examples and positioning for products with azelaic acid.

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Discover the possibilities of azelaic acid in scalp and hair care formulations, from shampoos to targeted scalp treatments.

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Technical guidance including dissolution recommendations, processing advice and frequently asked formulation questions.

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The complete ingredient information file: specifications, properties and background information on our active ingredients.

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Download the whitepaper: skincare products with a high dosage of azelaic acid
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A deep dive into the effects of high percentage azelaic acid in skincare products, including an oil free serum formulation with 12% azelaic acid.

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Blogs & insights

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