Active ingredients for skin prone to rosacea

Consumers with redness-prone and sensitive skin look for cosmetic products that support skin comfort without compromising the skin barrier. Traditional aggressive approaches are often associated with irritation, dryness and reduced tolerance.

Azeco Cosmeceuticals provides multifunctional actives designed for visible redness, skin sensitivity and uneven skin appearance: Azepur99® azelaic acid, Lady Purple® and the new bioactivated HydrActive™ Almond Oil.

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Rosacea Treatment Active Ingredients

Understanding redness-prone skin

What formulations for redness-prone skin need

Skin prone to rosacea is often characterised by visible redness, sensitivity, flushing and compromised comfort. Formulating for this category requires ingredients that support calmer-looking skin while maintaining mildness and stability. Many traditional redness-focused ingredients create challenges related to irritation potential, instability or poor skin compatibility, so modern formulations focus on multifunctional actives with better tolerance profiles.

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Rosacea Treatment Active Ingredients

Three actives for calmer-looking skin

  • Azepur99®: supports calmer-looking skin with multifunctional cosmetic activity, high formulation compatibility and reliable dispersion.
  • Lady Purple®: supports skin comfort, hydration and microbiome balance while helping protect against oxidative stress.
  • HydrActive™ Almond Oil: a bioactivated oil that is clinically shown to reduce visible redness after irritation by 19% after 30 minutes and 24% after 60 minutes, while moisturising without a greasy feel.
About HydrActive™ Almond Oil
Ingredients

Recommended ingredients

LadyPurple®

Microalgae-derived active supporting hydration, microbiome balance, and protection against environmental stress.

TetraGold®

Bioactive microalgae ingredient designed to support skin hydration, sebum balance, and barrier function.

T-pur99®

High-purity tetrahydrocurcumin designed to support visible skin performance and even skin tone.

Azepur99®

≥99% purity azelaic acid to support formulation performance. Suitable for skin and scalp applications.

Amazia™

Violacein-based biotechnology active for blemish-prone skin that respects the skin microbiome.

HydrActive™ Almond Oil

Bioactivated almond oil with clinically proven soothing and moisturising properties.

BioMic™ Fermentate

Postbiotic anti-ageing active obtained by precision fermentation.

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product

Key formulation benefits

Why these actives work for sensitive skin concepts

  • Supports visible redness reduction
  • Suitable for sensitive skin concepts
  • Supports microbiome-friendly formulations
  • Antioxidant protection support
  • Compatible with clean beauty positioning
  • Reliable cosmetic-grade quality and excellent formulation flexibility

A great ingredient is only half the story. The other half is the trust and reliability behind it: consistent purity, a supply you can plan on and a team that answers your technical questions.

Nikéh Schulpen, Chief Executive Officer

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Ai-zeco

Which active fits your redness-prone skin concept?

Ask Ai-zeco to compare Azepur99®, Lady Purple® and HydrActive™ Almond Oil for your claim and formulation type.

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Technical documentation for redness-prone skin

Essential guides and brochures for the actives on this page, free after registration.

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Download the Azepur99® Essential Guide
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Download the Azepur99® Essential Guide

Technical guidance for formulators covering applications, formulation strategies, solubility and cosmetic positioning of azelaic acid.

PDF · 26 pages · English

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Download the Lady Purple® Essential Guide
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Download the Lady Purple® Essential Guide

Lady Purple®, a revolutionary cosmetic ingredient designed to transform skincare formulations. Infused with the potent benefits of microalgae, it serves as an advanced shield against environmental oxidative stress while supporting and maintaining a balanced skin microbiome.

PDF · 26 pages · English

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Download the HydrActive™ Almond Oil Digital Brochure
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Download the HydrActive™ Almond Oil Digital Brochure

PDF · 26 pages · English

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Frequently asked questions

What formulators ask us most about applications, mechanisms and use levels.

Azelaic acid is positioned as a gentle, sustainable alternative to benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid. It is multifunctional (covering acne-prone, inflammation-prone, brightening and scalp applications), 100% biobased and palm-free, non-comedogenic and well tolerated. For brands looking to develop a clean, sustainable active story, it offers a compelling alternative to more aggressive ingredients.

Yes. Azelaic acid has antioxidant properties, which adds to its appeal as a multifunctional active in skin-care formulations.

Azelaic acid is not limited to Acne vulgaris. Studies indicate it is also effective on other forms, for example hidradenitis suppurativa (Acne inversa). Effectiveness depends on the concentration of azelaic acid in the product. For cosmetic products a concentration up to roughly 14% is generally used, while pharmaceutical products are based on 20%.

Azelaic acid is a potent 5-alpha-reductase inhibitor, the enzyme that converts testosterone into 5-alpha-dihydrotestosterone (DHT). It is also associated with scalp microbiome normalization and hair re-growth stimulation, which is why it is of interest for scalp and hair-care formulations.

Azelaic acid supports skin brightening and whitening through tyrosinase inhibition and melanin reduction, the pathways involved in the formation of pigment. This makes it a popular active for products targeting hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone.

Azelaic acid helps balance acne-prone skin through several mechanisms relevant to formulators. It has antibacterial activity that targets specific opportunistic organisms such as Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes) and Staphylococcus epidermidis, it is comedolytic, and it supports sebum regulation. Its activity is limited to opportunistic organisms and does not disturb the commensal skin flora.

Studies report that azelaic acid at concentrations of approximately 3 to 10% can support hair and scalp formulations. Particularly good results are described when azelaic acid is combined with zinc sulphate and vitamin B6.

Published data show positive results for skin lightening, brightening and the appearance of dark spots using approximately 3 to 10% by weight of azelaic acid in the formulation.

Cosmetic products containing roughly 5 to 15% by weight of azelaic acid are commonly used for rosacea-prone and redness-prone skin. As a reference point, FDA-approved pharmaceutical products for rosacea are based on a 15% azelaic acid content. Higher concentrations generally deliver stronger performance.

For cosmetic products, a concentration of up to about 14 to 15% by weight is generally used, and published studies indicate azelaic acid remains effective for blemish-prone skin at these levels. For reference, pharmaceutical (drug) products approved by the U.S. FDA for acne are based on 20% azelaic acid creams. Generally, the higher the concentration, the stronger the performance of the product.

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