Azelaic acid: a gentler alternative to retinol
Brands are constantly looking for actives that deliver visible results for a broad group of consumers. Azelaic acid is increasingly positioned as a gentler alternative to retinol. Here is why.
Effective, but not always comfortable
Retinol is valued for its effect on skin renewal, fine lines and blemishes. Its downside is irritation: redness, peeling and increased sensitivity to sunlight are common, especially when consumers start using it. In the EU, retinol is also restricted to a maximum of 0.05% retinol equivalent in body products and 0.3% in other products.
Milder on the skin
Azelaic acid is much milder and less likely to irritate. That makes it an excellent option for consumers with sensitive skin and for people who are new to active skin care. In the EU, azelaic acid can be used in cosmetic products without a specific concentration restriction.
How azelaic acid works
- Calming: helps reduce the look of redness.
- Balancing: acts on the bacteria linked to blemishes.
- Keratinisation: normalises the shedding of skin cells, so pores stay clear.
- Tyrosinase inhibition: supports a brighter, more even skin tone.
Product ideas
- Skin care for sensitive skin, with azelaic acid as the gentle active.
- Multi-functional serums and creams that address blemishes, uneven tone and redness in one product.
- Starter products for consumers who are new to actives.
Would you like to test Azepur99® in your own formulation? Request a free sample kit or contact our technical team.
