Urban pollution and skin: how phycoerythrin protects against oxidative stress
City air contains fine dust, polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, heavy metals and gases. Together with UV radiation, these pollutants trigger the formation of free radicals in the skin. The result is oxidative stress, one of the main drivers of dull skin, loss of radiance and visible skin ageing.
What oxidative stress does to the skin
Free radicals, or reactive oxygen species (ROS), react with lipids, proteins and DNA in skin cells. Cells defend themselves with antioxidants such as glutathione, but when exposure is high, that defence is overwhelmed. Lipid peroxidation increases, the skin barrier weakens and the skin loses its radiance.
Phycoerythrin: a light-capturing antioxidant
Phycoerythrin is a water-soluble phycobiliprotein produced by the red microalga Porphyridium cruentum. In the alga it captures light for photosynthesis and gives it its pink colour. It is also a strong antioxidant that neutralises free radicals and protects cells against oxidative stress.
What the data show
- Urban dust: in keratinocytes exposed to a pollution mix that mimics city air, Lady Purple® reduced the production of free radicals in a dose-dependent way, by 9% at 1%.
- UV: in keratinocytes exposed to UV, Porphyridium phycoerythrin kept the levels of free radicals, glutathione and lipid peroxidation unchanged.
- Antiradical activity: at 5%, Lady Purple® neutralised 39.5% of superoxide radicals.
- Radiance: in a 28-day clinical study with 22 women working outdoors, a cream with 5% Lady Purple® improved skin radiance by 14.5% compared with placebo.
Formulating anti-pollution products
Anti-pollution claims work best in daily products that are used before exposure: day creams, makeup bases, serums and sun care. Lady Purple® is water soluble, is added in the cool-down phase at 2 to 5% and adds a natural pink hue that many brands use as a visual signature.
Want to evaluate Lady Purple® in your own formulation? Visit the Lady Purple® ingredient page, request a sample kit or contact our technical team.
