Microalgae in cosmetics: why these tiny organisms make powerful actives

Microalgae are microscopic, single-cell organisms that live in fresh and salt water. They are among the oldest life forms on earth and have developed a remarkable ability to survive in changing, often harsh conditions. That survival strategy is exactly what makes them interesting for cosmetic science.

A natural biofactory

To protect themselves against light, oxidative stress and changes in their environment, microalgae produce a wide range of molecules: pigments such as carotenoids, chlorophylls and phycobiliproteins, polysaccharides, proteins, fatty acids, vitamins and minerals. Many of these molecules have antioxidant, moisturising or protective properties that are also valuable for the skin.

From microalga to cosmetic active

The challenge is to release these molecules in a form the skin can use. Microalgae have a tough cell wall, so the active substances are trapped inside the cell. Biotechnology offers a gentle solution:

• Enzymatic hydrolysis: selected enzymes open the cell wall and release the bioactive molecules without harsh solvents.
• Fermentation: fermenting the extract with a probiotic yeast adds postbiotic metabolites and improves bioavailability.
• Fine filtration: purifies the extract so that a clean, consistent ingredient remains.

Two examples from the Azeco portfolio

Lady Purple® is an enzymatic extract of the red microalga Porphyridium cruentum. Its phycoerythrin and polysaccharides help protect the skin against oxidative stress from pollution and UV, support hydration and give the skin radiance.

TetraGold® is made from the green microalga Tetraselmis suecica, bioactivated in two steps: enzymatic hydrolysis followed by fermentation with Saccharomyces boulardii. It helps rebalance sebum, supports the skin’s own hyaluronic acid and reduces free radicals.

Why microalgae are a sustainable choice

Microalgae grow fast and capture CO2 while they grow. They can be cultivated in controlled farming units, so their production does not depend on seasons or compete with food crops for farmland. Lady Purple® goes one step further: it is made from upcycled biomass that the farming unit does not use. Both Lady Purple® and TetraGold® are COSMOS approved, biodegradable and free of preservatives.

Read more in our blog Upcycled microalgae: how biotechnology is changing cosmetic actives.