The skin microbiome: why balance matters for formulators
The skin is home to billions of microorganisms: bacteria, yeasts and fungi that together form the skin microbiome. In a healthy situation these microbes live in balance with each other and with the skin. They help defend against pathogens, support the skin barrier and influence how the skin reacts to its environment.
When the balance is disturbed
Stress, pollution, harsh cleansing and certain ingredients can disturb this balance. When opportunistic bacteria such as Cutibacterium acnes or Staphylococcus aureus gain the upper hand, the result can be blemishes, redness or irritation. This imbalance is called dysbiosis.
Why broad antibacterial actives are not always the answer
Classic actives for blemish-prone skin, such as benzoyl peroxide, act on a wide range of bacteria. They reduce the bacteria linked to blemishes, but they can also harm the beneficial flora that keeps the skin healthy. That is why formulators increasingly look for actives that act selectively.
Actives that respect the microbiome
- Amazia™ inhibits C. acnes, S. aureus and S. hominis at low concentrations while sparing the probiotic strains L. plantarum and L. casei.
- Lady Purple® at 5% increased the growth of beneficial lactobacilli by 4 log in vitro, while the growth of S. aureus and P. aeruginosa decreased.
- Azepur99® azelaic acid acts on the bacteria linked to blemishes and helps normalise the skin flora, with a long track record in skin care.
Tips for microbiome-friendly formulations
- Keep the pH close to that of the skin, around 5 to 5.5.
- Choose mild surfactants in cleansers.
- Prefer actives with selective activity over broad antibacterial agents.
- Support the skin barrier with humectants and emollients.
Want to discuss a microbiome-friendly concept? Contact our technical team or request a sample kit.
