The advantages of skin care products with a higher concentration of azelaic acid
Azelaic acid combines several functions: it helps balance the skin flora, normalises keratinisation and inhibits tyrosinase. Most skin care products on the market contain up to 10% azelaic acid, but more and more brands work with higher concentrations.
Why a higher concentration?
The effect of azelaic acid depends on the dosage. For products with a light antimicrobial function, 3 to 5% can be enough. For blemish-prone skin and for brightening, 10 to 15% is recommended. Higher concentrations allow brands to make stronger claims and to deliver visible results faster.
How to formulate with more than 10% azelaic acid
Azelaic acid is poorly soluble in water, so high-dosage products need a smart formulation approach:
- Solvents: use glycols such as propanediol and butylene glycol, or ethoxydiglycol for clear products.
- pH: a pH between 5.5 and 6.5 gives the best balance of stability and bioavailability.
- Emulsions: partially neutralise the water phase before emulsification; W/O emulsions carry up to 15% without crystallisation.
- Particle size: a micronised grade disperses more easily and reduces grittiness.
Our whitepaper Skincare products with a high dosage of azelaic acid includes COSMOS listed solubilisers and an oil-free serum with 12% azelaic acid.
Would you like to test Azepur99® in your own formulation? Request a free sample kit or contact our technical team.
